One plate at a time

  From staff  |   Posted: Friday, August 17, 2007 ; Updated: 8:58 AM on Friday, August 17, 2007

One of the joys of dining at Collage presented itself immediately. Lauren asked if she could bring a basket of warm, hearth baked crusted bread, silky herb butter and roasted garlic while lingering over the menu. Discussing seafaring specials created by Chef Melody Stewart became as pleasurable as the tasting. Who could resist their signature appetizer of Escargot, tender snails piled high -- sautéed with mushrooms and cognac cream sauce atop a light stack of puff pastry. Served on a dinner plate, it was a rich aromatic dish to be shared. Adventurous fans of Frog Legs a La Mel won't be able to resist every morsel, gently sautéed with anise liqueur, fried capers and caramelized shallots.

As 'uptown' dining sweeps across America from cosmopolitan cities to heartland hamlets, chefs today are coming out of the kitchen and into the limelight. With this 49-seat restaurant filled with patrons, I requested to discuss the entrees with Chef Melody and she was there, not because she wanted the spotlight but because one of her guests requested to "talk food."

She imparted the ingredients of many signature dishes and how much fun she has with cooking. She returned to the kitchen as the evening's surprise was served -- mixed berry sorbet. It was a refreshing intermezzo created daily with seasonal fruits that might include mango, lemon, passion fruit, pear or melon.

Our selections arrived: visually two fish masterpieces. Snapper generously prepared with Calamata olives, tomatoes, capers and light white wine sauce accompanied by lentils and Idaho Rainbow Trout, broiled and topped with a profusion of almonds and lemon butter sauce, served with Cous Cous and sautéed vegetables.

The inevitable desserts were impossible to resist from signature homemade ice creams and daily crème brulee's to the "Bougainvillea." To celebrate their 20-year-old landmark tree brought from Corsica, it features a warm phyllo pastry basket filled with vanilla bean ice cream, sautéed strawberries in butter and black pepper, drizzled with Cabernet vanilla sauce. It was worthy of its $9 ending, especially served with two spoons.

In a city where dining options seem endless, Collage hits the target in the center -- with infinite options that are fresh, creative and abundantly served.

Beginning Sept. 1, this trio of passionate restaurateurs will be offering a 4-course Chef's Menu along with their current selections. (with and without wine pairings). From anywhere in the region, it's worth a visit. By the time you depart, you'll feel like one of Collage's family.